Product Introspection: FW18 COLLECTION

18.09.25

Dissertations

0118205011024 NUI-JIME TUNIC P.O.

NUI-JIME

Nui-jime is a "tie-dyeing" technique that consists of stitching threads onto a fabric to depict an image or design where the patterns are created upon removal of the embroidery threads after the fabric is dyed.

Even with geometric patterns, varying warm expressions are achieved from piece to piece where the subtle distortions found along the straight lines of the designs becomes unavoidable with the handmade process; bleeding of the dyes adds further character, as it cannot be completely prevented when binding the threads.

COAT: 0118205013005 YUKATA COAT (W/LI VNTG TWEED), SHIRT: 0118205011024 NUI-JIME TUNIC P.O., CUT&SEW: 0118205009007 SUBLIG CREW 3-PACK S/S (TIGHT), PANTS: 0118205008017 HAKAMA PANTS (W/LI HERRINGBONE), FOOTWEAR: 0118201001002 SKAGWAY HI (JP CANVAS)

JACKET: 0118205014007 TENAYA JKT IT (GER DEER), SHIRT: 0118205011024 NUI-JIME TUNIC P.O., CUT&SEW: 0118205009006 SUBLIG CREW 3-PACK S/S (CA WIDE), PANTS: 0118205008009 TIOGA CARGO PANTS (HERRINGBONE)

UNEVEN DYE

There are several ways to express an uneven feel using dye, including kago-zome and shibori-zome (tie-dyeing,) which consists of rolling up fabrics to create pleats and using rotating cylinders to apply a different pattern to the front and back of the fabric at the same time.

By overdyeing the fabric that has been dyed using this "kago-zome" method multiple times, it creates a fabric with an enhanced, yet natural uneven texture.

left: 0118205012003 SELMER LONG CARDIGAN (UNEVEN DYE), right: 0318205012001 COWICHAN KNIT W (UNEVEN DYE)

COAT: 0118205013017 AYRES COAT NELL (W/LI), CARDIGAN: 0118205012003 SELMER LONG CARDIGAN (UNEVEN DYE), CUT&SEW: 0118205009007 SUBLIG CREW 3-PACK S/S (TIGHT), PANTS: 0118205008019 MUIR PANTS (LI/W/C TWILL), FOOTWEAR: 0118201001001 SKAGWAY LO

left: 0118205010020 JUMBO SWEAT CREW 3/4 (UNEVEN DYE) *F.I.L. EXCLUSIVE, right: 0318205010007 BASIC HOODIE P.O. W (UNEVEN DYE)

COAT: 0318205013008 GREASE MONKEY COAT W (C/LI), HOODIE: 0318205010007 BASIC HOODIE P.O. W (UNEVEN DYE), PANTS: 0318205008003 JODHPURS PANTS W (W/LI HERRINGBONE)

JAPANESE CANVAS

This fabric was made on a slow weaving traditional shuttle loom using a strong twisted yarn for both the warp and weft threads.

By adjusting the yarn count, twist count and yarn density, the typical rugged feel of canvas has been diminished to create a fabric that combines a sophisticated texture with a durable stiffness.

0118205013013 MAGASIN COAT

left: 0118203003056 STENCIL CANVAS TOTE, right: 0118203003059 STENCIL CANVAS UTILITARIAN SATCHEL L

COAT: 0118205014002 BIG SKY COAT (JP CNVS/VEG SHRLNG), JACKET: 0118205006006 SS 101 JKT DRY DENIM *F.I.L. EXCLUSIVE, CUT&SEW: 0118205009006 SUBLIG CREW 3-PACK S/S (CA WIDE), PANTS: 0118205008019 MUIR PANTS (LI/W/C TWILL)

HIGH DENSITY NYLON

Taking nylon yarn and twill weaving it at high density, allows this often bulky fabric, made from synthetic fibers, to have a softer feeling while maintain dense and stiff texture found in natural material.

Additionally a mud-dyeing process has been applied to many of the products made from this fabric (excluding some products) where each piece has varying degrees of damage, unique colors and an unevenness of the fabrics textures.

left: 0318205013005 VALDEZ COAT W (WOOL PILE), right: 0318205013002 KIMONO MIL COAT

COAT: 0318205013002 KIMONO MIL COAT, DRESS: 0318205017002 RUANA DRESS 2-TONE, BOOTS: 0318202002013 T.W.O. BOOTS-FOLK W

COAT: 0318205013005 VALDEZ COAT W (WOOL PILE), DRESS: 0318205017007 DOLLY DRESS (LI/W/C TWILL)

left: 0118205013028 THORSON JKT, right: 0118205013029 COACH JKT

JACKET: 0118205013029 COACH JKT, JACKET: 0118205006006 SS 101 JKT DRY DENIM *visvim FLAGSHIP STORE EXCLUSIVE, HOODIE: 0118205010021 JUMBO HOODIE P.O. (UNEVEN DYE) *visvim FLAGSHIP STORE EXCLUSIVE, CUT&SEW: 0118205009006 SUBLIG CREW 3-PACK S/S (CA WIDE), DENIM: 0118205005045 SOCIAL SCULPTURE DRY DENIM 4 *visvim FLAGSHIP STORE EXCLUSIVE, FOOTWEAR: 0118201001002 SKAGWAY HI (JP CANVAS)

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