August 1, 2017

VISVIM WMV FALL AND WINTER 2017

Dissertation on Contrary Warriors

I am always thinking about how I want to do something exciting. Something where suddenly you realize there are so many ideas flowing and just thinking about them is fun.
Of course I am doing something creative, however chased by the daily schedule I often find myself thinking in my head about the business and culture.

ワクワクする事をしたいといつも思ってる。思い立ったら、次々にアイデアが溢れて、考えているだけで楽しくなるようなことを。
日々のスケジュールに追われ、もちろんクリエイティブなことをしているんだけど、いつの間にか、ビジネスやカルチャーの中で頭で考える事が多くなりがちである。

I thought of it one day when I was doing some design work. I'm going to open our first American store in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Not in New York, not in Los Angeles, and not in San Francisco, but Santa Fe.
Within walking distance from the main plaza, a small Victorian house, hanging a handmade sign that we made, and I'm also going to sell some of my favorite furniture.

The ideas just don't stop.

デザインワークをしていたある日、思い立った。アメリカに作る最初のお店は、ニューメキシコ州のサンタフェに出そう。ニューヨークでもなく、ロサンゼルスでもなく、サンフランシスコでもなく、サンタフェに出そう。
プラザから歩いて行ける小さなビクトリアン調の家に、自分たちで作ったハンドメイドの看板を飾って、お気に入りの家具も販売しよう。

そしてアイデアは止まらない。

I want a handmade wash paper lantern in there, and I also want to place a folding screen from the Edo period with Elephants depicted on it that I saw previously and couldn't stop thinking of. I'm also going to sell folk craft objects that I have collected from all over the world. Handmade folk craft objects deeply relates to the products that we make. Also antiques that have inspired me, I'm going to sell them with the WMV and visvim products we made.

I wanted to share this exciting idea with my wife Kelsi before I explained everything to my team.
After I finished telling her my idea, she said to me,

"As I was listening to you, I was reminded of the Contrary Warriors."

手漉きの和紙で作った提灯と、前に見かけて気になっていた江戸時代の象の屏風も置きたい。世界中から集めてきた民芸品も販売しよう。手作りの民芸品は僕たちの物作りにすごくリレイトする。インスパイアーされたアンティークも、WMVとVISVIMの商品と一緒に販売しよう。
自分たちの手で仕上げたあったかい店を出そう。

そしてこのワクワクするアイデアを、チームに説明する前に妻のケルシーとシェアしよう。
一通り自分のアイデアを話し終わると、彼女はこう言った。

"あなたの話を聞いていて、Contrary Warriorsを思い出した"

"Contrary Warriors"
Amongst the Plains Indians of North America existed a group of warriors known as "Contrary Warriors".
When going to battle these warriors would show up riding backwards on their horses, and when greeted with a "hello" would answer with a "good bye". The people who first observed these warriors could not understand what they were doing, and simply thought of them as clowns.
The Contrary Warriors wanted to challenge the widespread stereotypes that existed in the tribes, purposefully practicing oppositional action and knowing that their repeated subconscious actions would in fact make it difficult for others to believe just the pre-existing choices and possibilities.

I like that.

"Contrary Warriors"
北アメリカのインディアンで、「プレインツ」という部族に「Contrary Warriors」という兵士たちがいたらしい。
彼らは戦いに行く時に、馬に前後反対に乗って現れたり、「ハロー」と挨拶されたら、「グッバイ」と答えたり。初めて彼らを見た人たちは、彼らが何をしているのかを理解できなかったらしく、単に道化師か何かと思っていた。
「Contrary Warriors」たちは無意識に繰り返される自分たちの行動が、そこにある「選択」と「可能性」を見えづらくさせる事実を知っていて、あえて反対のアクションを取る練習をすることで、その部族に広まっていた固定概念にチャレンジしていた。

気に入った。

"Dissertation on Contrary Warriors"

Hiroki Nakamura

WMV VISVIM SANTA FE
222 Shelby Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501
+1 505 983 7599

Kyoto Jibari-shiki Lanterns

京・地張り提灯

Historic Kyoto lantern maker "Kojima Shoten", which was established during the Edo Kansei era (from 1789 to 1801), is located near Tofukuji Temple in southeastern Kyoto, which is known for its many picturesque scenic views such as its beautiful autumn leaves and the Honbo Garden. Dating back to when the family business was first established, Kojima Shoten has always committed to the "jibari-shiki" lantern making and is one of the few remaining "Kyoto jibari-shiki lantern" manufacturers that continues to utilize this traditional method.

A distinctive feature of Kyoto lanterns is the "jibari-style". There are two types of lantern manufacturing methods. The first is called "makibone-shiki" ("wound bone style") and the other is called "jibari-shiki" ("affixing style").
The "makibone-shiki" is a method where the frame is made by winding one long, thin bamboo strip (bone) into a spiral frame. This method is optimal for mass production as it reduces the time required to make the frame, and today it is the typical method used to make lanterns. However, due to its weak intensity, the thickness of the Japanese paper that can be attached is limited, which also limits the applications of the lanterns.

京都の南、秋の紅葉や本坊庭園など多くの景勝で知られる東福寺のほど近くに、江戸寛政年間(1789年から1801年)創業の老舗提灯屋「小嶋商店」はある。創業当時から「地張り式」の提灯にこだわり、いまなお変わらない伝統的な製法で提灯を作り続けている数少ない「京・地張り提灯」専門の提灯屋である。

京提灯の特徴は「地張り式」であること。そもそも提灯の製法には「巻骨式」と「地張り式」の2種類がある。
「巻骨式」とは、一本に繋いだ竹ひごを木型に沿って螺旋状に巻いていき、提灯の骨格を作る方法をいう。この方法は骨格製作にかかる時間を短縮できるため大量生産に向いており、現在、一般的に用いられている提灯の製法である。ただ、強度が弱いため貼れる和紙の厚みが限られ、提灯の用途が限定されるという欠点もある。

On the other hand, in the traditional "jibari-shiki" method, both the bamboo used for the frame and the paper attached to the frame are relatively thick. The frame is made by fashioning single strips of bamboo into individual rings, and fixing them in place using string. This method requires a lot of time and effort, but it is extremely sturdy and can be attached with Japanese paper of varying thicknesses. The "jibari-shiki" method is conducted completely by hand and cannot be mass-produced, but you can feel the care and attention applied by the craftsmen, from the selection of each of the frames and pieces of Japanese paper used to make them.

In recent years, the demand for lanterns has decreased significantly. This has resulted in fewer "jibari-shiki" lantern manufacturers and craftsmen due to the rise of plastic lanterns or "makibone-shiki" lanterns, leaving only a select number of stores who have inherited the traditional style in Kyoto.

一方「地張り式」は、竹を薄く割って作った骨を一本ずつ輪にして木型にはめていき、何本もの麻糸で輪同士を結び合わせて提灯の骨格を作る方法をいう。製作には手間も時間もかかるが、とても丈夫なため様々な厚みの和紙を貼ることができ、素材の表情が活かされた堂々とした雰囲気の提灯に仕上がる。すべての工程を手作業で行う「地張り式」の提灯は大量生産することはできないが、骨の一本一本や和紙など一つ一つの素材選びにも職人の気配りが感じられる製法である。

近年では、提灯自体の需要の減少、ビニール提灯や「巻骨式」提灯の台頭などで「地張り式」の提灯屋や職人の数は減少しており、京都でも数軒が受け継ぐのみとなっている。

Lookbook FW17-18

Archives

SS17

Dissertation on VISVIM SHOW

FW16-17

Dissertation on self-reflection

SS16

Dissertation on revealing the inspiration

FW15-16

Dissertation on revealing the practice

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Dissertation on product individuality

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Dissertation on "patina"

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Dissertation on a happiness with no country

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Dissertation on a man with no country Vol.2

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Dissertation on Symbolism and our Prayer flag

FW12-13

Dissertation on a man with no country

SS12

Dissertation on Introspection