visvim Fall and Winter 2026

Expressing Synthetic Fibers by using Natural Fibers

I have been engrossed for a while now in an effort to create the textural feel of modern synthetic fibers by replacing their compositions with traditional natural fibers instead. The history behind synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester was the fact that they emerged as "substitutes" for natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk. They were considered to be cost effective, faster to manufacture, and generally more efficient. While the adoption of synthetic fibers became more widespread, due in part to their stable physical properties there is a notion that the exceptional texture and functionality inherent in natural fibers became more forgotten.

Our work runs counter to the trend described above as we are trying to create a textural feel found in synthetic fibers by using natural fibers instead and simultaneously harnessing their best characteristic qualities. We have been able to utilize silk now for a couple years to create nylon like materials and this season we were able to make another new material that used wool. We are now able to achieve a textural character that has greater depth, because we have incorporated an ultra-fine 17.5-micron washable wool that is able to undergo a variety of dyeing techniques including mud dyeing while also offering an incredibly soft feel against your skin. (*1)

We continue to experiment not only with expressions of different nylons, but also with recreating fleece like materials with natural fibers. The wool fleece we have produced so far was done in a woven structure; however, this season we updated the construction to a knit structure. It now has some stretch and will no longer require a lining to hold the woven wool fleece in place.

It possesses a textural appearance similar to its long pile fleece predecessor but offers enhanced breathability in comparison to a polyester fleece whose appearance it mimics; all while providing superior warmth. We have managed to create a new material that presents a fresh appeal in terms of its texture and comfort. (*2)

To develop a product that is new and unlike any other product that already exists it requires a great amount of time with years of dedicated testing combined with continuous refinement of the steps involved in the process of its production. There are of course multiple projects that we continue to work on that have yet to reach completion. However, the suppliers who have become our indispensable partners to make this sort of manufacturing possible are becoming fewer and fewer in both Japan and abroad. This is because our work runs counter to the general trend within the fashion industry that sways toward a more rational approach to business alongside a general desire to increase efficiency. I think that maybe our role within this landscape is not about preservation of the things that have long existed, but to rather reimagine how craftsmanship can be applied for manufacturing today through fresh perspectives and innovative ideas that can bridge the legacy of the past with the demands of a modern market.

*1 0126205013014 WINDFALL COACH JKT

*2 0126205013017 BARLOW P.O.

Dissertation on In Harmony We Trust

visvim Fall and Winter 2026

visvim Lookbook FW26

Text: Kosuke Ide

Photo: Keisuke Fukamizu